I am truly drawn to my 2003 Cabernet Sauvignon. The dark ruby hue invites you to discover the aromas of allspice, lavender, bay and cassis. I find the firmness of the structure just right, supporting the lushness of the mouth that makes Cabernet Sauvignon what it is. California wines, especially Cabernet, are often faulted these days for their lack of balance and true elegance—allow me to present my nominee for the counterpoint. PETER FRANUS