Bright, deep ruby. Slightly high-toned aromas of cassis, blackberry, bitter chocolate and violet. Lush and suave on entry, then superconcentrated and penetrating in the middle, with brooding flavors of cassis, black cherry, wild strawberry, minerals and chocolate complicated by notes of tar and licorice. Finishes with tongue-dusting tannins and excellent length. Rather austere today and not yet revealing its personality. This should be long-lived but really needs at least five years to show its inherent complexity. Stephen Tanzer